Hi guys welcome back to the workshop so anybody knows that if you work in a garage or some kind of building or whatever it gets pretty hot in there and depending on where you want it does get pretty cold and I did want to do this for a very long time it just hadn't got around to it I was actually looking and researching which system should I go with but one of the big things is I wanted to go with a system that I could do completely different start to finish on my own so before I committed to this system I did a ton of research and this was the only system that I was able to find that I can do from start to finish without bringing in an HVAC guy the system I'm installing is by Mr. cool and I'll link the model thatI'm using for my garage I reached out to them the first quarter of this year they got back to me and it got me a unit and they're today's sponsor so big thank you to them for that so this is their DIY kit I have the 12,000 BTU one so I'llbasically this one comes pre-charged already the only thing you're gonna need is an electrician if you're not comfortable with that part of it but I'm gonna go through the entire installation and you understand how I did and maybe can help you you'll get the concept once I'm done there's so much to do let's get to work let me show you how I did it oh by the way row the introduce I settled on a location for the indoor unit I then need to find a location for the outdoor unit our main goal was to get it over hereunder existing air conditioner pad the condenser is not too heavy so if you need to mount it on a wall that shouldn't be an issue the unit for the indoors is really light but the harness on it does make it a challenge to handle this unit does come with a mounting template but I believe I must have thrown it away or something not sure what happened to it so I'm gonna have to install mine the hard way to get this unit installed the first thing I need to do is hold it up to the wall and trace it so I haven't I be on alert to mounting now I really wanted to Center this over the door and it was driving me crazy that I couldn't you do have to respect the drain line and in this case the drain line need to go straight outside and down so the way I plan to install this is the drain line is gonna go straight outside and the harness is gonna go up over and down so one of the main reason for sending the harness up into the attic is one I didn't want to have all this harness outside coiled up you have to leave it that way you can not cut it the other reason my house is CB construction and this is a solid poured wall right here I do not have the tools nor do I want to hire someone to come in and do the three-and-a-half inch hole after cutting out the drywall have then cut out the framing strips so I can then get to the Attic so anytime you need to drill a concrete want to start off using a smaller masonry bit first then increase the size if I was drilling from outside to inside that kind of goes away it's mainly went a bit exit the concrete when the blowout occurs so now that Iknow where my hole is I can now draw from the outside back to the inside if you have a wood friend and it should be simple to drill through however if you have a solid poured wall you'll want to drill with a hammer feature on it a little tape up drain line and then push that through the hole that I just drilled the next thing I did was install the bracket and unfortunately I didn't lineup with any stud and with the unit being so light I was able to install a cup of walling Kurz and mount it that way if you're researching units and you want to do it yourself just think about this 25foot hose does need to go somewhere as I said before mine is gonna pass through the attic so some of that is gonna be left up there and the harness you have the two copper lines and you also have the electrical wire I'll take the ends and then I pushed it up to the attic tonight it's easy you'll need somebody in the attic that's pulling and also somebody's pushing from below within the harness you have the two copper line going to the condenser and also the electrical wire it's really important to keep by on the entire harness and do not put any sharp bends in it after feeding the entire harness up I'm going to rest the unit on the bracket and then connect the drain lineI'm out at my bracket a little higher than it should have been so I came back later and fixed it and now I can address the outdoor unit the first thing I did was drilled up through the soffit and the location I pick I made sure that I had clearance going from the soffit all the way down and with the hole being fully cut out now I need to push up a pull wire or cable so I can then tie it onto the harness and pull it back down and doing something like this you definitely gonna need an extra hand I ended up doing this on my own so I was exhausted from the minute trips to thematic just to pull a couple of inches at a time as a way to hide the harness that's coming down about a separate cover kit from Amazon and this came with a bunch of pieces I just used what I needed the kid actually worked out great help me hide the area where I cut through the Safi plus the debris clean and look rather than to have the harness just coming down and understanding straps drew it my own holes in a cover kit I thought this made things a little easier all throughout this installation I kept dropping the screws and then I remembered I had this magnetic tilt for the screws these things are super handy and I used it where I could so this part is pretty much done I'm gonna put the cover kit on and close that up and now the next thing is I'm gonna jump over to the condenser be sidelining it to the pattern the only thing I have to do is now hook up the electrical and also tie in the refrigerant lines but a cleanness hook up you want to use some kind of liquid-tight it's flexible and it's easy to maneuver and route wherever you need it to go now you'll need to remove the two knockouts that are in the cover the unit I have runs off 120 volts and its recommended to have its own breaker whether it's 15 amps or 20 amps the liquid-tight conduit it's great for what it's used for but it's really tough to push the wire through so it's easier if you use a fish tape or just stretch it out as straight as you can and then you can possibly push the wire through the kit comes with two screw-on connectors I'm gonna put the 91 at the unit and the other one, I'm gonna leave off since this is a temporary connections while back I added a sub panel in the garage which was also sized for this unit at a later point, I run wires from the sub panel to this unit but luckily Ido have some local power here that used for my sprinkler system which I absolutely don't use this is good enough to get my unit up and running so I no longer have to be sweating in the heat the power cord that comes with the unit already have a connector on it and I don't want to leave this big hole just there so I'm gonna use a push-on connector as a way to feel this and thenI'll come back with some silicone or some kind of sealant to close that up after stripping all the wires I then crimp down Spade terminals and now I'm ready to connect to the unit now it doesn't matter which order you choose to go I first connected the ground wire for the indoor unit then I just connect the connectors and this part is done at this moment the unit is not plugged into any circuit since this unit is 120 volts I need to connect the green wire to the ground next I'll connect the black wire to the line and last but not least I'llconnect the white wire to the NutriterminalI would recommend anchoring down the unit first before connecting a refrigerant line but for the purpose of this tutorial.
I just want to make sure that I'm getting a good view for you guys now it's also important that you leave the caps on until you're ready to connect these lines they are color-coded and you'll know exactly which one needs to go where to avoid stripping the thread I do recommend that you tighten these on by hand first and you should be able to get around 50% or more of it on before using a tool but a final tightening I'm gonna recommend using a wrench or a couple wrench or a couple adjustable wrench but never use a pair of pliers on the end that turns this itself material and you can ease this strip it so I'm now going to anchor your unit down and I'm gonna use these rubber feet that came with the unit the drill four holes in the slab and then I installed tap cons to hold a unit down so I need to make one more trip to the attic and I'm going to use these PVCclamps to lift the harness off of the insulation before firing this up I got one more thing to do and that's opening up the lines the system already come precharged so all you have to do is loosen up your caps turn the valve all the way counterclockwise until it stops now put the caps back on and then get some soapy water spray it on all the connections just to make sure you don't have any leaks and a good indication that you have leaks is you'll understand bubbles showing up once you've opened up the refrigerant valve you cannot loosen the lines again otherwise you're gonna have to have an HVAC guy come out of service the system everything looks to be fine so I'm going to put the cover on and plug it in it just so happened that I have a few power options at my disposal to the left, I have a regular 15 amp breaker there and the one I'm going to now is a 20 amp breaker that's for my sprinkler system and just above that to the right I have a junction box with a 220 circuit in it that one's gonna be used for irrigation pump and with the addition of my electrical sub panel we're gonna bring a separate circuit here with a cut-off switch outside for the time being I'm gonna plug the hole with some putty but I'll come back with some pest block phone so insect can't get inside most cases the harness is going to come out of the same hole as the drain line because my situation is a little unique things went indifferent direction so the clamps I'm using they're not included you'd have to pick those up separately and I have a link to that in a written version once you've written the drain line to where you needed to go it's pretty simple to cut to prevent Lee grime from building up next to the AC unit I install this drain line to direct thataway so this is the remote for the system we're now going to understand this thing turn on together so it does come with the batteries just snap the batteries and put the cover on and then we can fire up the system this system come with a Wi-Fi dongle that you would plug into the unit, and this will enable the system to have the Wi-Fi feature which you can then connect to it with your phone now all you have to do is lift the lid and plug in the USB stick next you'll need to go to your app market and then look for the mr.cool app if you're not really into the smart features there no worries you can still get the same control with the remote that comes with the system this system can not only keep you cool but it can also warm you up overall I'm pretty happy about this install I finally get it working a space that is cool down now one of the biggest downfalls with this system it does come with this attached 25-foot harness so you can't cut it you have to work with it so in your case, you may have to just go straight out the wall and then build some kind of box that you can call that up in and leave it there so that's the only suggestion I got for you so I've never owned a mini split before so I don't know how common this is but I do like that this has a schedule built init I can have this operate and turn on a couple hours before I come in the shop on top of that there is an app so I can control this remotely if I'm coming home or from out of town I can change the schedule on it so that is pretty dope about this system I do want to thank mr.cool for hearing me out and definitely get me one of their units out here so I can get it in my place and be able to work in a cool environment
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